Monday, 27 December 2010

M/M Interview with Charlie Baker-Collingwood

Image of Charlie Baker-Collingwood provided for exclusive use and may not be reproduced without written authorisation. All rights reserved.

This exclusive Charlie Baker-Collingwood of Henry Herbert Tailors, London was conducted by Nicola Linza and Cristoffer Neljesjö in London, England during December 2010

Please describe yourself and why you started Henry Herbert Tailors?

I am a young London-living Englishman and I have always been fascinated by colour, shapes and sizes. I love watching the symmetry and precision in garments, which is why the world of tailoring was so attractive; you cannot beat the sharp edge of a well cut hour glass suit. I created Henry Herbert Tailors because I thought London deserved a new breed of tailors, offering an alternative character to the methodologies and attitudes of more traditional houses. It has been an attempt to bring traditional tailoring into the new century: respecting traditions, but serving them with an energetic and novel approach.

Who came up with the idea of a Savile Row Scooter service?

I came up with the idea in 2008. I have always been hugely impressed and fascinated by Savile Row but, like many others, found walking into some of the traditional tailors on the Row very intimidating. I began to wonder if you could reverse this relationship – instead of the customer coming to Savile Row, why not bring the Savile Row experience to the customer, at their convenience? And so the idea was born: a Savile Row by scooter service which can conveniently meet customers around the clock, wherever and whenever is good for them. At the same time, I wanted to maintain the high standards of English tailoring and as a result, all of our suits and shirts are made to the same exacting standards, using the finest English and Scottish cloths.

What are some of the most important questions a man can ask a tailor?

To enter the bespoke suit world can be an overwhelming experience. It shouldn’t be – it should be a luxurious indulgence that you enjoy. I always offer these top tips to guide customers through the potential of tailoring:

1. Visit as many tailors as you like. It is a relationship that must be comfortable for you.

2. Familiarise yourself with the different styles and choices available to you. Always ask if a tailor has a house style.

3. Be advised by a tailor, never pressured.

4. Have an idea of the colour and the cloth you are looking for. It will narrow down the vast selection available to you. You should expect your tailor to be patient and courteous.

5. It is your bespoke suit (or shirt). Remember there are no wrong answers, merely preferences.

6. A good tailor will comfort you, not condescend you.

7. Expect at least a couple of fittings and at least as many months to perfect your first order. If you don’t have this, ask your tailor why.

8. All good suits and shirts should be tailored locally to the tailor. He needs to be able to speak to his cutter, seamstress and craftsman and, if they are in another country, things can become difficult.

9. Find the budget that is right for you and make sure that the final prices are clearly given to you. Never be afraid to ask a tailor this, before you discuss anything else.

10. Enjoy wearing it – every handmade suit and shirt will have its own characteristics.

Would you please speak about the “Pick Your Cotton Carefully” campaign, as well as the significance of “Made in England?”

The textile and tailoring industry has enjoyed exceptional growth, but it is important that, as we grow, we remember the traditions of our tailoring heritage, as well as the raw materials that make up our suits and shirts. We must honour the traditions of tailoring because contemporary tailors have so much to learn from our forefathers and some of the finest methodologies can still be found on Savile Row and Jermyn Street today. It is important that we protect and preserve these traditions, but also to bring them into the 21st century. Similarly, every tailor is proud of his work and must be proud of his materials: campaigns such as Pick Your Cotton Carefully (and the Prince of Wales’ Campaign for Wool) ensures that we protect those who harvest and supply us with the raw materials that we need to make luxurious shirts and suits.

What is your vision for Henry Herbert Tailors; how do you want to develop the company?

Henry Herbert Tailors is still a young, but growing firm and has survived one of the worst economic climates for several generations. This was a good test of the business model and strengthened my determination that, no matter how big or small a business may be and no matter how good or bad the economic climate, excellent customer service (and, of course, excellent fitting garments) is fundamental. A tailor’s relationship with every customer is the most important factor in the tailoring world. They can make or break you, help you sink or swim and clients will always be grateful for the tailor who goes the extra mile. Therefore, the development priority for Henry Herbert Tailors is to build even better relationships with our existing customers over the next few years, and from then on, go from strength to strength.

Henry Herbert Tailors –

The above interview with Charlie Baker-Collingwood 2010 © Manner of Man Magazine/Welldressed. All rights reserved. Reproduction is strictly prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

Thursday, 23 December 2010

M/M Christmas in Heart

"Christmas is, of course, the time to be home - in heart as well as body."

- Garry Moore

Image provided by Kiton and may not be reproduced without authorisation. All rights reserved.

M/M Restored Renaissance Masterpiece on View in New Installation at Metropolitan Museum

Image: Filippino Lippi (Italian, Prato 1457?–1504 Florence,) Madonna and Child, Ca. 1485. Tempera, oil, and gold on wood 32 x 23 1/2 in. (81.3 x 59.7 cm.) The Jules Bache Collection, 1949 (49.7.10) provided by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. All rights reserved.

Filippino Lippi (1457-1504) is one of the great artists of 15th-century Florence. Among his principal patrons was the wealthy banker Filippo Strozzi (1428–1491), who in 1487 contracted the artist to decorate his funerary chapel in Santa Maria Novella with an outstanding cycle of frescoes. Around the same time, Strozzi also commissioned a Madonna and Child for his villa at Santuccio, west of the city. This work was acquired from the Duveen firm in 1928 by Jules Bache and was bequeathed to the Metropolitan Museum in 1949. In preparation for an exhibition on the artist that will be held in Rome next year, the picture was taken to conservation for examination this fall. A test cleaning revealed that beneath a thick, discolored varnish there was a beautifully preserved, richly colored painting. It emerged that the varnish had been artificially toned to create an almost monochromatic appearance—an amber-colored uniformity that conformed to the idea of how an Old Master should appear. So striking is the transformation that the picture seems a new acquisition.

To celebrate this restoration, The Metropolitan Museum of Art is mounting A Renaissance Masterpiece Revealed: Filippino Lippi’s Madonna and Child, a focused exhibition, beginning January 15, 2011, that will include the picture and a number of objects in the Museum’s permanent collection that can be associated with the Strozzi by their coat of arms, which has three crescent moons. The objects include a textile, a wooden chair, a cassone, and a column capital from the Palazzo Strozzi—the grandest of all 15th-century palaces in Florence. Filippo Strozzi belonged to one of the great patrician families of the city and played an important role there as an art patron. Although his father was exiled by the Medici in 1434, in 1466 Filippo was able to return to the city of his forebears, having made his fortune in the Strozzi bank in Naples. He set about rehabilitating the family’s prestige, in part by commissioning outstanding works of art such as Madonna and Child by Filippino Lippi.

The exhibition is organized by Keith Christiansen, John Pope-Hennessy Chairman of European Paintings. The painting was cleaned and restored by Associate Conservator Karen Thomas, overseen by Michael Gallagher, the Sherman Fairchild Conservator in Charge of Paintings Conservation.

The exhibition will be featured on the Museum’s website at

Tuesday, 21 December 2010

M/M Interview with Bruce Hulse

Image of Bruce Hulse provided for exclusive use. All rights reserved.

This exclusive interview with iconic male model Bruce Hulse was conducted by Nicola Linza and Cristoffer Neljesjö in Los Angeles, California during December 2010

How did you start in the business?

Was discovered lifeguarding by Bruce Weber in a small NJ beach town Avalon, NJ.

What was it like in the 1980s working with Bruce Weber for such fashion icons as Calvin Klein?

The 80's were the beginning of the modern era of Male Modeling so they were pretty exciting times. You could go from being a complete unknown to the cover of GQ (yes, male models did grace the cover) and become an overnight model sensation.

Describe your regular daily wardrobe routine.

I am a jeans and t-shirt kind of guy, and as I dont have a job that I have to get dressed up for, it is pretty simple some days I spend in my surf baggies and bare feet. Love that!

The standard for male models in some markets has loosened greatly in the past 25 years. Do you think the male image is being well represented today?

Yes I love the diverse looks and racial mixes that represent the modern male. I like the fact there is no one generic look but everything from a classic WASP look to a skate rat bohemian look. Confidence and inner presence always trumps fashion trends.

If you had to change anything about your life what would it be?

Nothing really. Just trying to keep evolving as a person, father, husband, and friend.

The above interview with Bruce Hulse 2010 © Manner of Man Magazine/Welldressed. All rights reserved. Reproduction is strictly prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

Wednesday, 15 December 2010

Tuesday, 14 December 2010

M/M The Measure of A Man

Image provided by Michael Jondral and may not be reproduced without prior written authorisation. All rights reserved.

Sunday, 12 December 2010

M/M A Christmas Gift

"Time is too valuable to waste on people who are jealous of you.  So give them a gift …the gift of good bye."

Manner of Man Magazine

Image courtesy of Luigi Borrelli. All rights reserved.

Boot Camp

Special thanks to Sam Scott Schiavo

Friday, 10 December 2010

M/M The Cabinet of Eros: Renaissance Mythological Painting and the Studiolo of Isabella d'Este

Image courtesy of the author. All rights reserved.

Review by Nicola Linza

The work of Italian artists and craftsman has always been renowned for being executed to the highest level quality standards of artistic vision, materials, as well as workmanship. The Italian court work of the fifteenth century, especially that of the studiolo as expressed at Villa d'Este for Isabella d'Este marks a period which remains unsurpassed.

Stephen Campbell's scholarly volume "Renaissance Mythological Painting and the Studiolo of Isabella d'Este" published by Yale University Press seeks out the history of such special commissioned spaces. Campbell's work is important as he studies and presents the studiolo and goes far beyond convention to the social history and purposes of such specific and personal luxurious spaces.

This volume will be of particular interest to Italians in Italy and abroad, especially interior decorators, designers, and architects. There will also be particular interest to Italian social historians, non-Italians in the fields, and those whose work encompasses art history of the period.

Palestrina : Agnus Dei

Special thanks to Matías Jaime Chandía Escámez

Thursday, 9 December 2010

M/M Luxe, Calme et Volupte

Images provided for exclusive use by Luigi Borrelli and may not be reproduced without written authorization. All rights reserved.

Tuesday, 7 December 2010

M/M Preservation Society of Palm Beach 2010 Robert I. Ballinger Award Given

The 2010 Ballinger Award for outstanding restoration and rehabilitation of historic architecture was presented at the Preservation Foundation’s annual membership luncheon held on Monday, December 6th, 2010. This year, the Foundation awarded the house La Tonteria. A 1935 Georgian-Colonial Revival, the home’s original design was by John L. Volk for Edward J.S. Donovan.

Foundation Chairman John Mashek presented the Ballinger medal to James Harpel for his restoration of the residence.

James Harpel choose architect Jeffery Smith and his firm Smith Architectural Group to do the restoration and renovation. Besides Jeffery Smith and his project leader Laura DiGregorio as architects on the project, Mario Nievera did the landscape design, and the interior design was handled by Katherine Shenaman. The industries of John Volk’s own son, John Volk Jr. also contributed to work on the house.

The Foundation’s Co-Directors Janice Owens and Alexander Ives gave a presentation honoring the home, with Owns discussing the history and Ives highlighting the restoration and renovation work. Over 175 images by professional photographer Stephen Leek detailed the architectural features.

The renovation took nearly 4 years. By its completion the house was roughly a third bigger than its original size and over 5 times the originally estimated cost had been spent. In the simplest and perhaps most shocking example every single brick in the building was replaced. The original bricks distressed each one differently by John Volk to create a sense of age, were individually all removed to be recast and then waterproofed.

The entire site was landscaped with new motorcourt paving and low site walls. The entrance and exit gates and perimeter wall were all reconstructed to match the original John Volk design. All windows and french doors were replaced with hurricane impact rated windows and french doors.

The grade at the east lawn was leveled to alleviate the “bowl” effect that existed previously. Before this renovation-restoration, a rectangular pool had run east to west with the center of the house. The pool was moved to the west end of the property, made oval and oriented north to south. The tennis court was resurfaced and a new retaining wall with perimeter chain link fencing put in.

On the southwest end of the building a second story addition of a new guest bedroom, bath and closet was put in above the study-library. The study-library was nearly doubled in size and a new bow window was built.

On the northwest side of the building had been a pool house added in the 1980s. In its spot now are two floors with a sitting room, a pool cabana trellis room, and second floor guest rooms, beneath all of which is a converted basement wine cellar.

The second floor porch was restored to the original sleeping porch. French doors replaced infill windows, columns were restored and a new wood picket railing was made. The Master Bedroom Loggia was brought back to the original John Volk design.

The Ballinger award was first presented by the Foundation in 1987 and honors the late Robert I. Ballinger Jr., former chairman of the Palm Beach Landmarks Preservation Commission. Struck by noted sculptor Edward Grove, the medal itself bears the likeness of a bust of Ballinger that was sculpted by Ballinger’s wife, Didi Ballinger, and, on the reverse, the name of the house being honored and its owners. Harpel will also receive a special leather-bound photography book dedicated to their home. The book is made by hand and takes several months to produce.

All images by Stephen Leek. All rights reserved.

The Preservation Foundation of Palm Beach is one of the strongest and most well established membership-based nonprofit 501(c)(3) organizations in South Florida. Intended to bring together like-minded individuals with a genuine interest in preserving, maintaining and honoring the unique architectural and cultural history of Palm Beach, the Foundation and its members have long been identified for their commitment to Palm Beach and their efforts to better the community. Over 30 years, the Preservation Foundation of Palm Beach has given millions of dollars for the preservation and restoration of historic properties; worked advocating for the creation of over 250 landmarked properties; recognized numerous architects, owners, and properties with awards; educated hundreds of thousands of children about the architectural, cultural and environmental legacy of Palm Beach; and saved thousands of archival documents in our library among many other accomplishments.

A Few Good Men by Sam Scott Schiavo

Image provided by photographer Sam Scott Schiavo and may not be reproduced without written permission. All rights reserved.

Monday, 6 December 2010